COLUMNSGrapevine

Grapevine

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Nick Antonaccio
Nick Antonaccio

The weather. We all talk about it, as if there is some way to influence it. We all follow the weather reports as if they’re infallible. Yet, in the end, for the most part, we just grab an umbrella or throw on a raincoat.

My standard retort to the weather-challenged: “It’s weather, just deal with it.” I freely admit it’s easy for me, but not all others, to downplay changes in climactic conditions. Bad weather doesn’t typically have a direct impact on my livelihood or my safety. Critics will assail me with contradictions–hurricanes, tornadoes, Super Storm Sandy–yet these will (hopefully) continue to be the exception rather than the norm. The malevolence of these tempestuous events brings the force and power of Mother Nature into full focus, and humbles us in the face of man’s quest to be omnipotent.

But we must accept weather’s inevitability and its ability to impact our environment, our livelihood and our daily lives. Most difficult to cope with is the randomness and fickleness of Mother Nature.

As this is a wine-centric column–and as weather directly affects my wine adventures this year–allow me to expound on the effects of weather on the wine industry. Not the drawn-out tease of Mother Nature with prolonged periods of downpours or drought that can affect the quality of maturing fruits on the vine and, therefore, the economic value of a year’s harvest. At least with these events there is a possibility that subsequent favorable weather conditions might mitigate the impact of these types of weather patterns. Rather, I am referring to flash tempests that roar in unexpectedly, are indefensible and wreak havoc on the current, and perhaps future, harvest.

So it seems with our planned wine trip to France in September with friends. Weather anomalies have been occurring that concern me. Of course I open myself to my own criticism in the above paragraph. (But I’ve convinced myself this is truly potentially malevolent weather.) Others may accuse me of creating a personal tempest in a teapot (but I’ve convinced myself otherwise). It’s almost as if there is a divining rod embedded in our French GPS app for our upcoming trip.

Allow me to attempt to transfer my newly-emerging paranoia to you.

So far this year, it has not been an ideal season for growing grapes. Heavy downpours occurred in the spring. As a result, grapes are behind in their development; harvest may be delayed for weeks. But all may not be lost. As harvest approaches, favorable temperatures and rains may salvage the crops and perhaps result in a memorable vintage. But perhaps not. Will the French incur nature’s beneficence or malevolence?

In the past month, several weather-related events have occurred that inflame my concerns about our trip deep into French wine regions.

We’re travelling to the Champagne region, home to the finest sparkling wines produced in the world. However, last month malevolent winds and heavy downpours threatened this year’s crop. A freak hailstorm last year wiped out over 20 percent of all crops. Could more malevolence be in store? Not likely, I tell myself, but then again…

We’re travelling to the LoireValley region, home of Renaissance castles and fine wineries. Two months ago, the area sustained the equivalent of two months rain in two days. Rivers overflowed, vineyards were inundated. And then a hailstorm pummeled the Vouvray area, affecting over half of the vineyards.

We’re travelling to the Burgundy region, perhaps the premier wine region in the world.  Last Wednesday torrential rain, devastating hailstorms and high winds in several of the most prestigious areas destroyed up to 90 percent of vines. Authorities speculate that much of the 2013 and 2014 crops in the prestigious Beaune area may be lost.

I’m beginning to wonder if I should take weather more seriously–at least until this black cloud hanging over my head passes. I know I can deal with the weather. But will the rest of the planet be able to endure these once-in-a-lifetime effects?

Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

 

 

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