COLUMNSGrapevine

Grapevine: Presenting The Unique Wine Palate of Americans

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Nick Antonaccio
Nick Antonaccio

Americans drink more wine than any other nation. And most of the wine we consume is produced in the United States.

So what wines do we prefer? Is there a national preference for certain styles of wines over others? Do we tend to consume wines produced from a select few grapes or are our palates more expansive? Is there such a thing as a national palate, whereby Americans have honed a common preference for wine tastes, aromas and bouquets?

This week I’ll explore the American palate. From the early days of the democracy, a preference for sweeter styles of wines prevailed. Over the ensuing centuries, we experimented with various styles of wines. But surprisingly, our national taste for wine has changed little since the Founding Fathers tippled Madeira and Cabernet Sauvignon.

But for the 13-year respite when Prohibition put a halt to legal alcohol consumption, Americans appetite for alcohol has grown over the centuries, yet our preferences have not changed significantly. Today, Americans still prefer fruit-forward wines with mild tannins and acidity. Most Americans who prefer this style of wine don’t think of these wines as having a sweet profile. Yet comparatively speaking, Europeans have been drinking far dryer and more sophisticated wines over a much longer period of time.

How is the term palate defined for the intent of this week’s column? According to the Oxford Dictionary, it is “a person’s appreciation of taste and flavor, especially when sophisticated and discriminating.” Certainly, each of us has preferences for a particular grape variety and style of wine. Typically, one’s palate is honed over a number of years and eventually is able to discern nuances beyond taste and flavor.

But can there be a national consensus palate? Apparently so.

The Americans’ national palate has come to dominate the world wine market. As the largest consuming nation, winemakers across the globe clamor to craft their wines to satisfy the palates and wallets of the American market.

What are Americans winemakers producing to satisfy the American populace? The top five grapes grown in Northern California, which accounts for a dominant share of American wine production, are Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah. Do you recognize your drinking preferences in this list?

Across the globe, winemakers are shifting their production to these same grape varietals, oftentimes in direct conflict with ages-old vineyard and winery plantings and processes. For example, 50 years ago very few of the top five grapes were grown in Italy. That was before Italian winemakers set their sights on the American consumer. Not only are they now dedicating increased acreage to these varietals, but in a number of instances they have changed the style of wine being produced to meet the profile of the American palate. This has created a debate in wine circles that the Italians (and certain Spanish and French winemakers) have sold out to the Americans and abandoned their centuries-old traditions.

Another reason that Americans consume more wine than any other nation is our penchant for stand-alone wine consumption. In Western Europe, wine is rarely consumed away from the dining table. In the United States, we enjoy a glass of wine as a social lubricant as much as we do as an accompaniment to a meal. The American traditions of the after work glass of wine, group cocktail parties and wine bars are unique amongst wine-consuming nations.

Here’s the rub. Over the centuries, Americans’ palates have been honed to enjoy fruit-forward, balanced wines with low tannins and acidity. These wines tend to be in-your-face fruit bombs that lack subtlety and complexity. When we encounter other styles of wines from around the world, our palates may not be able to discern the nuances and finer characteristics of those wines.

Have American palates been desensitized to enjoy more sophisticated wines? I think not. In spite of efforts from profit-motivated winemakers, and wine critics who prefer big, fruity wines, alternative wines are being produced and should be sought out. Through continuous experimentation, a discerning palate can be developed.

Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

 

 

 

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