Grapevine: Creating a New Experience When Tasting Wine and Chocolate
What began as an analytical approach to comparing the processing of grapes and cacao beans to their logical end-product of wine and chocolate, has stirred more interest than I expected.
In recent columns, I’ve focused on the similarities in the life cycles of wine and chocolate, from raw ingredients to finished product. In the growing, harvesting and production of wine, I compared each step to similar steps in the making of chocolate. The similarities run deep and broad.
Then last week I alluded to the pairing of each product as a synergistic relationship that brought pleasure to my palate and my senses. In pairing wine and chocolate, a third level of appreciation is achieved. Beyond the sensory experience of wine enjoyment, beyond the ethereal pleasure of enjoying chocolate, comes a third sensation, one that builds on the combination of consuming wine and chocolate together, creating a higher level of sensory and ethereal pleasure.
Reactions from readers on pairing wine and chocolate ran the full gamut. “Wine and chocolate?” “Wine and chocolate!” “Wine and chocolate!!??”
This brought me to the inspiration for this week’s column: the why and how of pairing these comparable foods.
As with any wine pairing, the goal is to enhance the characteristics of a particular wine and a particular food. Fine chocolate has a high cacao butter fat content, coating the tongue and otherwise muting any food that comes after. The overall goal is to find compatibility between a wine and chocolate that raises the experience to a new level of enjoyment.
Certain wines have a relatively high acidity that cuts through the coating on the tongue, setting up one’s palate to enjoy fully the next bite of chocolate. Drier style wines cannot accomplish this; the conflict between the astringency of the wine and the bitterness of the chocolate ruins these pairings. Likewise, sweeter chocolates tend to be overwhelmed by sweet wines; high tannic dark chocolates are invariably incompatible with high tannic wines.
So, which wines with which chocolates? The logical inference would be a wine having characteristics of sweetness and acidity, and a chocolate that is dark and semi-sweet.
The wines: In my opinion, Port reigns supreme in pairing with chocolate. Older, heavier style Ports tend to be too cloying when paired with dark chocolate. Lighter styles, such as tawny and ruby, are excellent. Their livelier style brings out the best in dark chocolate’s creaminess and pungency.
The chocolates: There are so many fine chocolates on the market today. Seek out medium to small producers who focus on a (bitter) sweet spot of 60 to 70 percent chocolate. Lesser levels of chocolate make for a too-sweet confection; higher levels for a mouth-puckering, lingering bitterness.
Not into Port? My next favorite is Zinfandel. Many producers craft Zins that are bold with a touch of sweetness, acidic but well-balanced. Bella Vineyards in Sonoma County and many of the California Ridge Zinfandel blends pair well with fine dark chocolate. I’ve also enjoyed several dessert wine pairings such as Vin Santo.
When in doubt in my pairing decisions, when I’m in a quandary over selecting a wine to pair with chocolate or many other foods, my go-to wine is sparkling wine made in the Méthode Champenois style. The acidity and bubbles cut through the oiliness, creaminess or heat of most foods, setting up one’s palate to enjoy each bite.
If you prefer the sensual experience of wine and chocolate pairing without the effort of selecting examples of each, try Amarone wine from the Valpolicella region of Italy. Its terroir and winemaking processing produce a robust wine with aromas and flavors of chocolate in every sniff and sip.
Whether you enjoy pairing your favorite chocolate with a particular wine or your favorite wine with a particular chocolate, be mindful of the sensory dichotomies present. Strive to seek a combination that results in a higher level of enjoyment. Just as in life, diversity and compatibility result in the best relationships.
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
