Man’s Indomitable Will to Overcome the Forces of Nature

The forces of nature have persisted, some say dominated, in vineyards since early winemaking days. The macro forces such as drought, torrential rainfalls, hailstorms and hard frosts have plagued helpless grape growers.

The micro forces of nature have been tackled repeatedly, most recently in the last 50 years, including the development and use of man-made chemicals. Numerous chemical compounds are used today to repel or destroy plant-eating and grape-eating insects, fungus, mildew and multiple organisms that affect the physiology of grapevines and maturing grape clusters.

It is man’s imposition on the balance of nature in the vineyard that has increasingly come under fire by conservationists and preservationists. Only in the past decade has there been a movement by grape growers to address the dangers of man-made insecticides, pesticides and fertilizers. And what has this response been? Sustainable agricultural practices. Increasingly, farmers are seeking a symbiotic relationship with nature to preserve their crops through organic and biodynamic farming.

The use of man-made chemicals proliferated through the 20th century. Cheap and effective, they were viewed as a panacea by many grape growers.

Then, after several decades of consumer advocacy, many chemically dependent farmers began to revert back to the organic, more natural practices for fighting off insects and diseases.

However, chemical dependency still flourishes in many grape-growing regions across the globe. I’ve read numerous accounts of neighboring farms in which the fog of chemical spraying is wind-swept into an organic-centric farm, compromising the sustainable goals of the organic farmer.

Where are science and nature headed in this evolving climate of chemicals versus nature? For decades, agriculturists have sought to hybridize grape plants to create strains that are insect- and/or disease-resistant. By grafting branches of one sub variety of Cabernet Sauvignon onto another sub variety, new clones of resistant Cabernet have been created. However, this natural clonal selection has had mixed results. Nature continues to thwart science.

Undaunted, science continues to focus its endeavors in concrete laboratories, rather than natural fields, to combat and overcome nature’s forces.

I’ve reported on science’s efforts to alter grape genes to create supergrapevines, fulfilling every wish of grape growers for defeating nature’s macro and micro forces. These have met with resistance from “Never GMO” advocates. Research continues but any such mutations are long off.

I just read a report published by the French National Institute for Agricultural Research (INRA), Europe’s top agricultural research organization, which takes a different tack on creating supergrapevines.

They have focused their initial laboratory efforts on breeding disease-resistant grape varieties: supergrapevines that are not mutations nor genetically modified. After 20 years of effort they have successfully created in their laboratories four new grape varieties (two red, two white) that have been authorized by regulators to be grown in France. Crops are expected in a few years. It is estimated that the use of pesticides will be reduced by 80 to 90 percent, a health and cost benefit to grape growers – and consumers.

The reaction from the wine community? Mixed.

In favor: Spraying for fungal disease may be reduced from up to 15 times per year to a mere two times. What a cost savings – and a boon to the environment.

Not impressed: Why mess with Mother Nature? Rather than replant vineyards, just switch to organic farming. Bam! Problem solved.

In favor: The new grapes will breathe fresh air into currently planted centuries-old grape varieties.

Not impressed: Thomas Dormegnies, a French winemaker and researcher reacted: “Grape varieties in Europe have been developed by monks over centuries to suit the local soil. That is a wonderful heritage.”

In favor: The new grapes introduce new profiles of aroma, bouquet and taste, portending an exciting future for the wine industry.

Not impressed: Dormegnies opines that creating grapevines never before paired will lead to “artificial and unnatural ‘Frankenstein wine.’”

Science inexorably moves on. Whether INRA’s research is moving the wine industry forward, sideways or backwards is debatable. Time – and nature – will be the ultimate judges.

Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member of the Wine Media Guild of wine writers. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.