Menu Movers & Shakers: Rio Bravo Premiers in Larchmont Serving Tasty Mexican Fare
By Morris Gut – The artsy red statue guarding the Palmer Avenue entrance to the new Rio Bravo Tacos & Tequila that opened about a month ago gives just a hint of the south-of-the-border pleasures waiting inside. It is a sprawling 200-seat restaurant strewn with colorful Mexican art and artifacts, multiple seating areas in the front, side and rear, along with a big bar for socializing. The renovated location had previously operated as Globe.
Personable hosts and owners are brothers Edgar and Hector Brambila who also operate a Rio Bravo in Fairfield, Conn. and have another in the works in Westport.
A friendly hostess took us to our table while our eyes kept glancing at the Technicolor atmosphere. Our waiter handed us menus. Suddenly, an adorable guacamole cart came whizzing by testing our palates further. And the menu: it is not ordinary. It is limited and it plays on what we have come to describe as Mexican/Tex-Mex, and once you taste some of the specialties it will surprise you.
It certainly did us. Over two recent visits we ordered the Milanesa Chicken Tacos, hand battered fried chicken wrapped in a tortilla covered with melted cheese, roasted poblano crema, pico de gallo and mixed cabbage; a big Combo platter loaded with Enchiladas Suizas, corn tortillas rolled and stuffed with chicken and cheese, topped with melted Monterrey Jack, tomatillo and sour cream; Pork Carnitas, open face quesadilla made with pork carnitas, mixed Mexican cheeses, pico de gallo, Mexican crema, queso fresco and cilantro; and a Taco Veracruzano, flour tortilla with blackened tilapia, poblano crema, topped with roasted Mediterraneo salsa. The Marco Pollo Taco, bacon wrapped shrimp, tortillas covered with melted Jack cheese, caramelized onions, cabbage mix, pico de gallo and Cholula garlic crema. And, oh yes, one evening we also had an order of their Poblano Crema Corn on the Cob.
Additional menu options include: Torero Steak Fajitas, a giant portion of wood grilled marinated skirt steak; Southwestern Caesar Salad, a spicy twist to the traditional Caesar with corn, tomatoes, cotija cheese and chicken Milanesa, tossed with chipotle-ranch dressing; Square Knot Salmon, achiote and lemon seared salmon with roasted pineapple; and Emilio’s Calamari Tacos, tortillas covered with melted Jack, caramelized onions, crispy calamari, mixed cabbage, mixed cabbage, pico de gallo and Cholula garlic crema.
Special Hint: Rio offers Happy Hours Monday thru Friday from 3 to 6 p.m. featuring half price house drinks and appetizers. There is a large selection of Tequilas at the bar, and you can also build your own Margarita.
Rio Bravo Tacos & Tequila is located at 1879 Palmer Ave., Larchmont. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 .pm. Prices at lunch: $8.50 to $20. Dinner served 7 days a week: to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; to 11 p.m. Fri & Sat. Prices at dinner: $14 to $20. Bar/lounge for cocktails. Private party facilities for up to 40 guests. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Handicapped accessible. Ample free parking. Reservations suggested for larger groups: 914-341-154; www.riobravotacosandtequila.com.
Soft Shell Crab Season at La Piccola Casa, Mamaroneck: Proprietor/self-taught chef Walter Ricci is originally from Peru and had an Italian grandfather. Through the years he worked many popular kitchens in greater Westchester including the former Umberto’s in Rye and Giorgio’s in Port Chester, which he ran for 10 years. Several years ago he moved his cozy 17-year-old La Piccola Casa from the old Le Shack location along Rt.1 in Mamaroneck to refurbished quarters in the landmark DeLancey House where author James Fenimore Cooper lived for a time across from scenic Harbor Island Park along Boston Post Road. Walter is serving his new updated menu featuring many of his well-known specialties: Italian classics with concentration on the finest ingredients. Walter does his own shopping daily. If you crave Soft Shell Crab, Walter’s are among the best I have encountered in Westchester thus far. They are a must sautéed, plump, meaty and juicy! He has them on the blackboard regularly now, but check ahead just to make sure. During a recent visit I also saw a customer being served a giant Veal Chop. Looked darn good, too.
La Piccola Casa is located at 410 W. Boston Post Road, Mamaroneck. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Free street parking. Reservations accepted. Phone: 914-777-3766; www.lapiccolacasa.com.
Lilly’s Opens in White Plains: Partners Brian Mahon and Paul Dillane of Hudson Grille on Mamaroneck Avenue, White Plains, have renovated and re-opened their space next door as Lilly’s, a beautifully appointed 80-seat restaurant named after Dillane’s grandmother. It has the feel of an old fashioned parlor room warmed with retro photos, crystal chandeliers, booths and tables, with a long marble topped bar. The enticing menu produced by Executive Chef Tyler Jacobs offers such eclectic specialties as: a chef’s selection of charcuterie, cheese and pickles; Kale Salad with cider vinaigrette, apples, endive, grapes, strawberries, parmesan, bacon and almonds; individual pizzas like the Funghi Misti, shitake, Portobello and cremini mushrooms, mozzarella, grand paduano and roasted garlic; and Soppressata, with burrata, tomato, oregano and olive oil. Small plates include: Ricotta Croquettes, Brussels Sprouts, Meatballs, Short Ribs and fresh Oysters. Entrees include: Brick Pressed Chicken served with crispy potatoes and spring onions; and Skirt Steak with spinach and crispy garlic. Prices range from $4 for a plate of Marinated Olives to $22.50 for the steak. There is a large selection of beers to wash it all down. Right now the restaurant opens daily at 4 p.m. for dinner with happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday. They plan to open for lunch down the line. There are front and rear entrances. Lilly’s is located at 169 Mamaroneck Ave., White Plains. Phone: 914-997-5600; www.lillyswp.com.
Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net.
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